Tangled brown tresses tumble from the blond woman’s rolling bag. A wig, I figure, but a closer look reveals a head. A mannequin’s head, mind you, but with its lifelike face and all that hair, it is…well, unnerving.
“Traveling with a head?” I comment.
The woman glances down at her bag and laughs. “Yeah. I have a wedding tomorrow.”
Oh. That explains it.
My husband, Dave, is parking the car while I wait with our friend Joanie - plus Dave’s guitar, our backpacks, a cooler, and bikes - for the ferry to Block Island. It is September, and as we have for years, we are meeting dear friends for our annual gathering.
The drive from home to the ferry, as always, was tricky. As a rule, on this weekend, Dave leaves work in Greenwich around 3:00 PM. He then sits, stews, and grumbles in traffic while Joanie and I pace, anxiously glancing at the clock, waiting for him to pull in at home to pick us up. When he arrives, he unfolds himself gingerly from his seat, adjusts his back, and walks as briskly as possible to the house.
We girls strive to be upbeat, feigning calm, once Dave sets to work hefting the bikes on top of the car and strapping them in as the minutes pass. Joanie, ever optimistic, gives a “Whoo-Hoo! We’re off!” kind of cheer as we plunge back into the sluggish current of Friday afternoon traffic. Under ideal conditions, it’s two hours and fifteen minutes to the dock in Point Judith, our preferred place of departure. The last ferry of the day chugs out at 7:00 PM.
We all love Point Judith, but for Dave, it’s an integral part of this Block Island weekend. After the frenzied ride, he likes to browse at the sweatshirt shop, then stop in next door to pick up a steamy cup of Rhode Island clam chowder, with it’s salty gray broth and potatoes, no cream. Around the docks, the stench of fish and motor oil pervades. Gulls cry as they dart and wheel around hoary fishing boats bristling with lines and rigging. Engines grind, chains clank, halyards whack against masts, and somehow, it all seems charming.
But it was well after 4:00 when we left home today, and I had to seal my lips shut to maintain the fantasy, for as long as possible, that we might make Point Judith in time. We were passing the exit for Waterford when Dave asked how long it would take to get to the Point. “We’d have maybe ten minutes to spare if we don’t hit any slow spots,” I said, trying not to embellish, whine, or coerce.
Dave is a master at maintaining an animated public face, but he had spent too many hours in traffic this week, and could not mask his disappointment. “So I guess it will have to be New London,” he said.
There is nothing wrong with New London. The downtown boasts lovely Victorian buildings of aged red brick, but the transportation center is a utilitarian ferry depot, and we would sorely miss the joy of our accustomed ride over with our friends, Hallie and Buck. Still, decision made, we are here in plenty of time to catch the ferry along with the woman and her extra head.
Once Dave joins us, we board the ferry, climb the metal staircase to the upper deck, and take our seats. Dave is determined to be content and heads for the bar. He returns with potato chips, two plastic cups of merlot, a beer, and a smile. We click our drinks in a toast as the ferry churns out of the harbor. Too bad my husband chooses to set his beer down, for he kicks it over, sending a cascade of golden brew toward our assembled belongings. Argh.
An hour and a half later, it doesn’t matter, for we are encircled by friends at Dead Eye Dicks on Block Island, ordering swordfish, crab cakes, lobster rolls, and shrimp. It’s the perfect spot for the first night, right across the street from our hotel, The Narragansett.
In the beginning, the “Race Around the Block” was the incentive for this island weekend. Dave’s brother, Steve, would run the course, sweating, pumping, and panting, while the rest of us relaxed in the warmth of the afternoon sun at the finish line, sipping tasty mudslides and admiring the view of New Harbor. The tradition has continued because increasingly we recognize how precious is this time together.
Last year we celebrated Janet and Art’s daughter’s wedding and Steve and Debby’s 40th anniversary, although we were saddened to learn of Moo’s son’s divorce. The year before that, Len had just retired, good reason to indulge in an extra mudslide. Three years ago, we learned of Nelson’s Parkinsons diagnosis, and in 2009, I trudged off the ferry wearing a scarf, newly bald from chemo. Dave had thrown out his back the morning we left for that visit, and this year, Joanie's the one wearing a back brace. But Moo’s husband Cisco has joined us for the first time; Art and Janet’s daughter is pregnant; Mary’s daughter just got married; Tucker got a job at Google, and Casey’s boyfriend, P.J. got a job at IBM. So we celebrate and support, depending on what’s called for. “Peaks and valleys,” says Nelson’s wife, Anne.
Our topics, activities, and props have changed. There is more emphasis on stretching before mounting our bikes, and the question, “How did you sleep?” is not idly made. While none of us felt a need to bring a head in a bag, everyone carries a phone. As we catch up and crow while poring over the photos stored in those phones, most reach for their reading glasses to do so. Despite these signs of our aging, Block Island restores us. Deb says, “As soon as I see the island come into view from the ferry, the weight lifts from my shoulders. Here I can be a kid again, silly, and free-wheeling.”
Saturday night, after dinner at Dead Eye Dicks and a day of shopping, beaching, and bike rides, we gather in the living room at The Narragansett to sing. A couple, Karen and Peter, gray-haired and about our age, are reading quietly on the couch. I don’t give them much thought, but with a friendly smile, Joanie goes over to sit with them. Meanwhile, Art goes to the bar to buy them a drink, a kind gesture to offset our disturbing their peace. I file away their lessons in courtesy, and am proud of my gracious friends.
As everyone settles in, Dave strums his guitar, starts and stops a bit, trying out a few possibilities. I think he’s crazy to bring the guitar over to the island. He has to lug it around in addition to his backpack, and grapple with it while riding his bike. I’d never bother, too much of a pain, but where I give up on something that seems like too much trouble, Dave is willing to deal with the inconvenience if it’s going to make a difference in the end.
And it does. Would we have gathered on the couches and chairs at The Narry to sing if Dave hadn’t brought his guitar? We limp through “Sloop John B” and some Simon and Garfunkle numbers, straggly and short on words. Then the phones and reading glasses come out as Mary, Len, and Karen locate a lyrics site so everyone can lean in close to see the words.
Beatles songs seem embossed in our sixties-era souls and everyone belts out “You Won’t See Me.” As we move on to “In My Life,” a few voices quiet as eyes fill with tears.
“All these places had their moments
With lovers and friends
I still can recall
Some are dead and some are living
In my life I've loved them all.”
Once just a pretty song, the lyrics now strike a poignant chord. While every one of us has lost a loved one, this weekend at The Narry is a joy-filled moment, alive with laughter, friends, and memories in the making.
As we warble though Cat Stevens’ “Father and Son,” I reflect that ours was the youthful perspective when that song was popular. Now, we are the wistful parents. Okay. Enough of that. Getting maudlin. Time to ramp up the mood. Nelson takes over the guitar for a while, then back to Dave for some Jonathan Edwards and our favorites, “Don’t Cry Blue” and “Shanty.” Usually, we count on Steve’s harmonica for these two, but he left his guitar and harmonica at home. No one gives him any grief about that though. Hmm. He does not disappoint, however, and amazes us with a convincing vocal “harmonica” accompaniment.
It’s getting late, and even with the help of eyeglasses and cell phones, the tempo is slowing down. I look around this circle and marvel at the decades, experiences, and life phases we’ve been through together: our own graduations, weddings, pregnancies, job changes, and kids…not to mention, many birthdays.
This morning, while browsing the shops in town, I noticed and bought a greeting card, a vintage photograph of a line-up of little girls, each holding the waist of the child before her. Audrey Hepburn was quoted in the caption beneath the picture, her words so apt, so true: “The best thing to hold onto in this life is… each other.”